Escape to Prague without the summer hordes
17.09.2011, 10:52
Remember the romance of Prague in the early nineties -- the faded façades, the atmospheric bars, the thrill of discovering a secret city? During the summer, when you're elbow-to-elbow with beer-swilling tourists in the Old Town, those halcyon days seem far away. But fairy-tale Prague is there, especially if you visit in winter, when the crowds have dispersed.
Szálláshelyek, szállás, wellness: Szállodák.hu
Stroll down the quiet cobblestoned streets and explore the castle and churches. Spend an afternoon reading Kafka or Kundera in a café, and an evening sampling Czech cuisine (dumplings, cabbage and Budvar beer), preferably served at a candlelit table on a frosty night.
Where to stay
Book a room in the heart of the Mala Strana, arguably the city's most charming quarter, in the new Mandarin Oriental (459/1 Nebovidská; 420-2/3308-8888; www.mohg.comexternal link; doubles from $269). The 99 guest rooms, designed by London-based architect Khuan Chew (who's also responsible for the interiors of Dubai's Burj Al Arab), incorporate modern amenities (high-definition TVs) with the building's historic architecture (high ceilings; parquet floors). Don't miss the spa lobby's transparent floor, set above the ruins of a medieval church.
Where to eat
At Pravda (17 Parízská; 420-2/2232-6203; lunch for two $100), one of the city's best restaurants, the space is minimalist, and the dishes are anything but. Try the rich tagliatelle with Parma ham and artichokes. For a cozy atmosphere and Czech classics (pork tenderloin stuffed with plums, rabbit in garlic and spinach with potato dumplings), head to the antiques-filled U Modre Kachnicky (6 Nebovidská; 420-2/5732-0308; dinner for two $120). Though the dining room has hosted its share of celebrities, the restaurant maintains a low profile, which keeps the place convivial and decidedly local.
What to do
The often-overlooked Müller Villa (14 Nad Hradním Vodojemem; 42-2/2431-2012; www.mullerovavila.czexternal link) is a must-see for fans of Modernism. Designed by architect Adolf Loos, the perfectly restored home is a window into another era.